Thursday, May 14, 2009

Restaurant-centric Post

So, last night I had the pleasure of eating at Momofuku Ssam Bar. Since it was on my "to eat" list, it only seems right for me to offer a review, of sorts. First and foremost, I'd go back again...in a heartbeat. David Chang is entitled to each and every bit of praise heaped on his steamed pork belly buns (needless to say, this moved to the top of my "must cook" list). They're a miracle of simplicity, and shockingly good. I made double sure of this, having two orders (four buns). It is exactly as written on the menu: "steamed buns - pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers, scallions." Five ingredients (counting the bun), a miracle of simplicity, each ingredient perfect.

Let's back up a second, though. I started off with, "cured hamachi - edamame, horseradish, pea leaves." Very good, a delicate note to start things off. My only quibble might be that the horseradish was slightly strong to my tastes. Overall, though, very good.

Next, "charred squid salad - ginger scallion, mizuna." I've never cooked squid. I've only eaten it a lot. But I do know that the margin for error from a, "please don't turn out with the consistency of rubber bands," perspective can be elusive. They were outside the margin of error on this dish. Good flavors; gummy texture.

Ahh...the "philips brothers country ham (ashboro, nc)." Ssam Bar's take on a charcuterie plate, very thinly sliced ribbons of heirloom ham, served with a mustard-coffee-ham drippings sauce. Outstanding, and a serious order.

Really, the only thing that was a complete disaster for me was the, "lamb tortelloni - spring garlic, swiss chard, almonds." It was just bland, with a texture that was unappetizing.

Overall, I admire what David Chang is doing, and it's not his fault that NYC is best summed up as ten pounds of shit in a five pound bag. I don't recommend going with anymore than one other person, as the restaurant is very small, mostly consisting of one giant communal table, and a few smaller tables. It is one of the hotter restaurants in NYC, and appropriately packed, even at 9pm on a Wednesday night.

In somewhat related news, Frank Bruni, the restaurant critic at the New York Times, is moving on. The search for a replacement is always fun to follow. He did a hell of a lot better than most people thought he would five years ago. It'll be interesting to see who they get to replace him.

Found a recipe for home-made Sriracha sauce via @myersandchang, which I'm anxious to try. Perfect addition to the spring fridge.

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